A look from the A La Disposition FW11 Collection
One of the best parts of what we do is having a constant ear to the ground, looking for the best of the under-the-radar labels. We’ve had our sights set on A La Disposition for awhile (the label launched in 2005), primarily due to their left of center experiments with silhouette and volume and their talent for taking traditional pieces, like the corset, and making them look completely of-the-moment. We are particularly in love with their FW11 collection, called The Utopian Aviary, which uses birds as a jumping-off point for some of the most gorgeous and dramatic silhouettes of the season. This is definitely a label to watch. We spoke with the husband and wife team of Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen via email about their collection and a fashion industry in a state of flux.
BM: Your FW11 collection is called the “The Utopian Aviary” what was it specifically about birds that inspired you to choose this concept for the entire collection?
ALD: We are always experimenting with the manipulation of the human silhouette and achieving the suggestion of a birdlike shape in clothing was an artistic challenge and a great aesthetic experiment.
BM: In what has been called the “new economy”, it has been said that people who buy high-end fashion are looking for more personal, more special pieces. How do you think your work falls within these categories?
ALD: Ever since its reinvention, the brand has by chance and not by design operated along similar principles. To us fashion is always about the expression of the inner self.
BM: Tell us about your background and training? What designers did you intern for, if any?
ALD: Both designers were trained in fashion at Parsons School of Design in New York and then in the arts of tailoring and corsetry in London. We have always considered learning the Art of Garment Making as the way to a greater understanding of fashion and to better express one’s ideas through fashion.
BM: How do you feel about the way collections are presented to the press and in turn, the public and the circus that often surrounds Fashion Week? Is there anything that you would change about how you present your collection?
ALD: Though we have experimented with different mediums from artistically designed look books to fashion films to exhibitions, the catwalk is currently the most effective way to reach a broad audience, from fashion professionals to potential customers. We would like to maybe combine the runway with a presentation for a more intimate atmosphere, giving the audience a chance to view the garments in more detail.
BM: How would you describe the woman you design for? What’s in the future for A LA DISPOSITION?
ALD: Strong, independent and feminine. The future holds for us the relocation from New York to London which shall be in effect August 1, 2011.