In our eyes, Haider Ackermann is one of the very brightest stars in the fashion firmament. Increasingly, his is among the collections that we look most forward to seeing. For FW11, he stepped up his game in a way that was impossible to predict. Everything about the looks in this collection was an exercise in push-pull dialogue: daring exposure and wrapped-up restraint, soft contours and sharp edges. The slow, purposeful walk of the models and the severe hair looks lent an air of danger that was intriguing, especially when paired with the haunting voice of Leonard Cohen playing in the background. When other designers are still overdoing overt sexuality, Ackermann offers a post-modern version with waists accentuated with wide belts, slim, floor-sweeping skirts and exposed slashes of skin. Alongside the futuristic leanings of this collection, there were impeccably tailored coats and trousers and luxe knits that grounded the entire aesthetic in a way that even the most sensible femme fatale can appreciate.